Getting there -- Relationships and "face" -- Minding your Ps and Qs -- In his name: religion and calendrical feasts -- The world of work and business -- Dress and make-up -- From the cradle to the grave: education and health -- Partners in joy and sorrow -- The food of love -- Going places, doing things -- The soul of the nation -- Epilogue -- Appendix A: Iran: a brief history -- Appendix B: The solar and lunar calendars and public holidays -- Appendix C: The holy imams.