Deep structure, longue-duree: charting the hajj over the centuries. Ancient pilgrims: Southeast Asia's earliest Muslim pilgrims -- Mecca's tidal pull: the Red Sea and its worlds -- Financing devotion: the economics of the pre-modern hajj -- Sultanate and crescent: religion and politics in the Indian Ocean -- Sailor, doctor, statesman, spy: the hajj through four colonial windows. In Conrad's wake: Lord Jim, the "Patna", and the hajj -- A medical mountain: health maintenance and disease control on the hajj -- The skeptic's eye: Snouck Hurgronje and the politics of pilgrimage -- The Jeddah consulates: colonial espionage in the Hejaz -- Making the hajj "modern": pilgrims, states, and memory. Regulating the flood: the hajj and the independent nation-state -- On the margins of Islam: hajjis from outside Southeast Asia's "Islamic arc" -- "I was the guest of Allah": hajj memoirs and writings from Southeast Asia -- Remembering devotion: oral history and the pilgrimage.