"Marvine Howe, a former correspondent for the New York Times, takes us behind Morocco's exotic facade to discover the largely tolerant Muslim country, struggling to catch up with modern times and cope with the penetration of political Islam sweeping the world.".

Return to Morocco -- Commander of the faithful -- Tour du Maroc -- The ever present past -- Protectors and wards -- The shadow of King Hassan II -- Society in motion -- Islamic revival -- The conflicting worlds of women -- Split identity -- Grappling with mirages -- Royal democracy -- Zigzags on the road to democracy -- The new society -- Saharan imbroglio -- Friends, neighbors and others -- Kingdom at the crossroads.